Rock Gardens are one of the most effective landscaping features.
They also provide that all elusive curb-appeal that adds signicant value to a home at minimal cost.
There are few features in the garden that provide such a variety of interests in so little space as a well-planned and carefully planted rock garden.
The smallest plot may contain a rock garden which will house a representative and charming collection of alpine plants; but, on the other hand, there are few features in the ordinary garden that are so neglected and so ill-understood.
It must be remembered that the chief function of the rock garden is to provide the plants grown in it with conditions, so far as possible, similar to those existing in their natural haunts.
The alpines and high alpines are the most typical of all rock plants and are mostly natives of the high mountain crags and screes of the Alps and Himalayas.
The ideal rock garden, therefore, should, so far as possible, provide the soil and natural conditions pertaining in these regions.
During the short alpine summer the plants are subjected to fierce and baking sun; many of them, therefore, have thick leaves covered with down or hair to protect them from its shrivelling rays.
The roots, too, at this time need ample moisture, and this is provided by the melting of the snows on the mountain tops, whence it permeates through the scree of the moraine.
Also, to live in their natural haunts they require to be very deep and strong rooted, very often with a much greater root run than the foliage and flowers which their roots support.
Enjoy. DT.
Gardening...
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MAKING THE MORAINE
An ideal and natural position for the moraine would be in the sun on the slope of a miniature valley between two rocky spurs, the gorge gradually expanding into a flat bed of scree with occasional boulders strewn over it.
The extent of the moraine will vary in proportion to the size of the whole rock garden. If the latter is large, the moraine may cover an area of many square yards; on the other hand, it may be nothing more than a small, well-drained pocket or crevice filled with moraine mixture in which little more than a single specimen is grown.
To construct the moraine, dig out about two and a half feet of the soil and make the bottom of the basin or trench slope slightly towards the bottom: the slope must not be too steep or the moraine will become over-dry in summer. The lower ten inches of this basin must be made watertight by means of puddling with clay or by means of cement.
Make an outlet in front, which when closed keeps about ten inches of water, but not more, in the lowest parts of the basin, while when the outlet is open no surplus water can remain in the basin.
Cover the bottom of the trench with about six inches of rubble, stones, or material that will afford good drainage. Above this place another six inches or so of smaller stones roughly one inch in diameter; these will fill the gaps between the larger stones and will prevent the small grit above from sinking through and blocking the drainage and also assist the capillary action to lift the moisture on the warmer days.
The hollow is then filled up with a mixture of stone chips and gravel. Over this again is thrown a covering, an inch or so in thickness, formed of a mixture of equal parts of ordinary garden soil, leaf-mould, and small stone chips similar to those used in frosty weather for sprinkling on wood-paved roads.
Limestone or sandstone chips are excellent and easily obtained; flint chips should not be used, as they do not conserve moisture. Place a few boulders in the moraine to break up the surface and to give the plants some protection. A natural trickle of water may be led into the top of the moraine, or each day sufficient moisture may be given from a watering-can to cause an overflow from the outlet at the bottom. From November to May, when no additional moisture is needed in the moraine, the outlet should be left open.
Continued from ...Rock Gardens - How to Plant Them by A. Edwards
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