Rock Garden Design

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Rock Gardens are one of the most effective landscaping features.

They also provide that all elusive curb-appeal that adds signicant value to a home at minimal cost.

There are few features in the garden that provide such a variety of interests in so little space as a well-planned and carefully planted rock garden.

The smallest plot may contain a rock garden which will house a representative and charming collection of alpine plants; but, on the other hand, there are few features in the ordinary garden that are so neglected and so ill-understood.

It must be remembered that the chief function of the rock garden is to provide the plants grown in it with conditions, so far as possible, similar to those existing in their natural haunts.

The alpines and high alpines are the most typical of all rock plants and are mostly natives of the high mountain crags and screes of the Alps and Himalayas.

The ideal rock garden, therefore, should, so far as possible, provide the soil and natural conditions pertaining in these regions.

During the short alpine summer the plants are subjected to fierce and baking sun; many of them, therefore, have thick leaves covered with down or hair to protect them from its shrivelling rays.

The roots, too, at this time need ample moisture, and this is provided by the melting of the snows on the mountain tops, whence it permeates through the scree of the moraine.

Also, to live in their natural haunts they require to be very deep and strong rooted, very often with a much greater root run than the foliage and flowers which their roots support.

Enjoy. DT.

Garden Design: How to Choose and Place Garden Art in Your Backyard
Deborah Boland
ff2 Garden Design: How to Choose and Place Garden Art in Your Backyard

Your backyard should relax and refresh you, but it should also delight you! Choosing garden art that reflects your personality and makes you feel good is an important key to creating the ultimate backyard.

Art can mean many things to many people but basically there are 3 types:

1. Formal Art Think larger stately pieces that you see in more traditional backyards, like a classic sculpture of a Greek goddess or a stone angel. Heavy iron garden ornaments like obelisks and sundials also work well with most backyard landscape designs.

These pieces create an old-world feel and lend a sense of drama to the yard. Others might include columns, carved fountains, birdbaths, and classical architectural salvage.

2. Semi-formal This is the most popular type because it suits so many styles of backyards. It's more relaxed in theme, a little more nostalgic and decorative.

For example, light hearted sculptures of animals or children in concrete, resin or bronze, contemporary metal sculptures of flowers and insects, stained glass stepping stones, artistic birdhouses, and hand painted garden pots, copper wind chimes.

3. Informal Art I call this art “your imagination gone wild”. Everyday objects are placed in the garden to create art that is fun, whimsical, and even campy.

I've seen all kinds of items used as garden décor like: old rubber boots planted with flowers, a nostalgic wire bedroom headboard , an antique window frame, an old-fashioned bathtub, a dressmaker's dummy, and fancy china plates.

Remember that the type of art you choose should be in keeping with the feel of your backyard but it should also be an expression of you.

The most important thing is that you should feel some emotional attachment to your garden art.

Tips for placing Garden Art In the garden, art becomes a focal point. Your eye is naturally drawn to it and it commands your attention. So where you place it is important. Put garden art:

• In a boring, bare part of the yard to add interest and stimulate conversation

• At the end of a path to add drama

• In any area to add comic relief. I have a cute bronze frog lying on a back on a lily pad beside my waterfall and pond.

• In front of an ugly spot to hide dead patch • Directly in line with an unwanted view of the neighbour's yard to create privacy

• On a wall or fence to visually break up the long monotonous line. I have a beautiful concrete painted face hanging on one part of my fence and a mirror hanging on another to add interest.

• In front of a colourful burst of foliage to punctuate the space. My classical white bird bath looks gorgeous just in front of my huge pink rose bush

• Hidden behind some greenery so it just peeks out a little to create a feeling of antiquity. This will put plants in the spotlight.

• Within the frame of a beautiful view to enhance the view even more. My backyard is on the lake and the view is made even more beautiful by a large fountain of Poseidan the sea God that we have made part of the view. • In a rock garden to create feeling of garden gallery. The rocks are natural pedestals for the art and create a wonderful playground for eye to bounce around in and land on art.

Don't forget about the view from inside. Take a look out your window to see where you might place art so that it draws you out into the backyard.

Finally, less is more. Too much garden art will make your backyard look junky. All you need is a few interesting pieces to personalize your backyard and give it a sense of place.

Deborah Boland © 2006 All Rights Reserved

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MAKING THE MORAINE

An ideal and natural position for the moraine would be in the sun on the slope of a miniature valley between two rocky spurs, the gorge gradually expanding into a flat bed of scree with occasional boulders strewn over it.

The extent of the moraine will vary in proportion to the size of the whole rock garden. If the latter is large, the moraine may cover an area of many square yards; on the other hand, it may be nothing more than a small, well-drained pocket or crevice filled with moraine mixture in which little more than a single specimen is grown.

To construct the moraine, dig out about two and a half feet of the soil and make the bottom of the basin or trench slope slightly towards the bottom: the slope must not be too steep or the moraine will become over-dry in summer. The lower ten inches of this basin must be made water­tight by means of puddling with clay or by means of cement.

Make an outlet in front, which when closed keeps about ten inches of water, but not more, in the lowest parts of the basin, while when the outlet is open no surplus water can remain in the basin.

Cover the bottom of the trench with about six inches of rubble, stones, or material that will afford good drainage. Above this place another six inches or so of smaller stones roughly one inch in diameter; these will fill the gaps between the larger stones and will prevent the small grit above from sinking through and blocking the drainage and also assist the capillary action to lift the moisture on the warmer days.

The hollow is then filled up with a mixture of stone chips and gravel. Over this again is thrown a covering, an inch or so in thickness, formed of a mixture of equal parts of ordinary garden soil, leaf-mould, and small stone chips similar to those used in frosty weather for sprinkling on wood-paved roads.

Limestone or sandstone chips are excellent and easily obtained; flint chips should not be used, as they do not conserve moisture. Place a few boulders in the moraine to break up the surface and to give the plants some protection. A natural trickle of water may be led into the top of the moraine, or each day sufficient moisture may be given from a watering-can to cause an overflow from the outlet at the bottom. From November to May, when no additional moisture is needed in the moraine, the outlet should be left open.

Continued from ...Rock Gardens - How to Plant Them by A. Edwards

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